Grumpy in Madeira

We’re up early today and on the road.

We’re going to Santo da Serra, which is one of our favourite places. It’s on the East coast up in the hills in the parish of Machico.

It is proper name is Santo Antonio da Serra (Saint Anthony of the mountain).

On a Sunday, there is a traditional market. It is a great place to visit for Fruit, Vegetables, and Plants. You can also find Flowers, Espetadas, Hot Pork Rolls, Poncha, Vinho Seco, Clothes, Bedding and much more.

It is situated on a high plateau (700m). It can get a bit damp and cold when there’s cloud about. Take a light jacket or fleece.

It is a farming area and the local produce is on sale at the market. There is a lot more to this market than just fruit and veg. They sell local craft work and products. It has an atmosphere all it’s own, with local music, the colours, sounds and smells.

Besides the usual things sold at a farmers market, they have a section across the street from the food and produce.

This section sells clothes, bedding, arts and crafts. There are also lots of little bars and cafes scattered about.

I’m not one for shopping, so the food and produce section is for me.

You can have an Espetada cooked on the bay stick over embers. With a Bolo do Caco. Roast Chicken. Or Carne de Vinha d’alhos (Pork, Wine and Garlic) in a roll. That will set you up nicely for a Poncha or a Vinho Seca.

The Poncha is delicious, the Vinho Seca is an acquired taste and will blow your head off. It’s a homemade dry wine that is very, very strong. The drinks come with nibbles.

I have a friend who said, about the Seca “It was the worst thing he has ever tasted.” He laughed and swore he would NEVER taste it again. Stick to the Poncha.

We buy the local honey from here. I think we paid 12 euro for a litre bottle. It tastes fantastic with a lot more flavor than jars from the supermarkets.

The market starts around 9am and goes on till mid to late afternoon. It is definitely worth a visit.

If you like golf then Santo da Serra has that too. It is home to the 27 hole Clube de Golf Santo da Serra. They hold the Madeiran Island Open and Seve Ballesteros said “the course is fantastic, the clubhouse and scenery are very beautiful”

To me golf is a waste of a good walk unless it’s walking to the clubhouse bar.

If you fancy staying in the area there is a hotel that caters especially for ramblers and golfers. Its the Enotel Santa da Serra, a converted Manor House which was recently renovated and opened in 2024.

All in all a very nice place to visit.

With all the plant’s about we couldn’t leave without one or two eh!!!!

We got a shit load. I thought I’d had a session on the Vinho Seca. I was seeing not double but quadruple!

😳

With all the fresh air and humping plants about we worked up an appetite.

Its one of our favourites, traditional Portuguese Squid & Seafood rice for dinner . My way!!!!

Grumpy’s Squid & Seafood Rice.

INGREDIENTS:

300g Squid (cleaned, skinned and de beaked.)

How to clean Squid

250g Mixed Seafood (clams, mussels, shrimp ect)

4 King Prawns

1 Medium Onion (chopped)

Mixed Chilli’s/Peppers (chopped)

3 Garlic Cloves (chopped small)

1 can chopped tomatoes

3 Tbsp Tomato Pulp

2 L water

1 Glass Dry White Wine

500g rice

2 tsp Tabasco or Chilli Sauce (if you like it spicey)

2 Bay leaves

Bunch of Parsley

Sea Salt & Black Pepper

Garlic Baguette

METHOD:

Put Olive Oil in large flat skillet

Cook Onions, Mixed Chilli’s/ Peppers and Garlic until onions are translucent

Add Rice and mix until coated, 2 mins

Add can Chopped Tomatoes and Tomato pulp, mix well

Add Boiled Water mix well

Add Bay Leaves, Tobasco or Chilli Sauce and Salt and Pepper

Add White Wine, Bring to boil and simmer around 15 mins (add more water if it goes dry)

Add Squid, Mixed Seafood and King Prawns for last 10 Mins

While it’s simmering put Garlic Baguette in oven

Place in large serving dish or leave in skillet

Sprinkle with chopped Parsley and lemon slices

Enjoy with Garlic Baguette and lots of your favourite Vinho🍷 🍷🍷🍷